Dynamic Hand Value

Many advanced players know that the Sklansky hand rankings, by author and poker expert David Sklansky, are not strict rules and that there can be exceptions, but that they are general guidelines used for hand ranking. This should be emphasized because hand values differ greatly based on the number of players in the pot. The solution lies with the type of hand you have and how many other players such a hand is effective against.

The types of hands have been divided into 3 categories: Large pairs which are J-J or higher, big cards such as two cards of the J-Q-K or A, and small pairs or suited connectors. The last category is actually, we know, two unrelated groups but they can be played the same and that is the reason we have grouped them together.

The following information, it should be noted, was created with longhand, limit poker games in mind. cards of J-Q-K or ace), and small pairs and suited connectors (we know they're totally different but there's a reason we've grouped them together - trust us). Please note that the following information has been developed with longhand, limit context in mind.

Large pairs
People hope to get these premium hands. They have great value in and of themselves and aren't board-dependent for a win. People frequently raise these hands pre-flop based on the strength of the cards, but often raise pre -flop to knock other people out.

For example, let's look at the K-K. Unless an ace hits the board, the K-K will very likely be the best hand at the flop. However, if the board is Q-10-2 and someone has Q-J and someone else has A-K, they'll be tempted to draw to check out another card. If you make this more complicated and make the Q-2 suited, someone with two cards of that same suit will be drawing as well. Now, you're confronted with a situation where there are about 16 outs, depending on what the suited cards happen to be, against you. While you still have the greatest chance of anyone to win the pot, it has become much more probable that someone else could win instead of you!

This can be a frequent situation with large pairs: they are the best cards to come by at the flop, but there are enough runners out there that one of them is destined to beat you at the river. The way to improve this situation is to drive these people out of the game at the flop through raises aimed at limiting the pot size. Re-raise after they've raised you in order to make it very expensive to see the pot, and raise at the flop to knock other players out of the game. In the above situation, if you are seated in an early position and there are five people in the game at the flop, you should consider checking in the hopes of check-raising to eliminate some of the players between you and the original bettor. Consequently, people with five outs or less won't be in the pot against you and you won't have as many worries about long-shot draws winning over you.

Another idea applies to a loose game. Consider not raising much pre-flop. If you are in a late position now and a player has raised, with four players cold-calling the raise, do not re-raise because you are only increasing the pot and giving people a reason to chase you. Design raises to limit the pot size and increase your winning chances.

Big cards
Big cards such as A-K, A-Q and K-Q are wonderful for shorthand games, but can be quite problematic for longhand games. While big cards can be an overpair and win money from a player whose hand isn't likely to improve, such as top pair or top kicker, these hands are often the ones that make top pair or top kicker. Unless you are out-kicking your opponent or your opponent is really not very bright at all, he or she will probably be on a draw against you. You should probably go ahead and take the pot down at flop, or at least increase the expense for the other players to see the turn.

Small pairs and suited connectors
Situations vary, but these hands can change dramatically in terms of value. Assuming a non-heads up situation, where small pairs do alright on the likelihood of other players failing to hit anything, these hands are those that should be played in a multi-way pot. General, you either won't hit much when holding these hands or, you will hit a very nice hand such as trips, a flush, or a straight. The goal with these hands is to stack the pot odds in your favor. Note: The A-? hands play very much like a suited connector.

When you have a suited connector, you should hope that there are enough callers and dead money in the pot to warrant drawing to the straight or flush. Pot odds are the reason these hands can display a profit with four or more players in the pot. They will be weak, generally, against two or three other players. In a pot that is played multi-way with a suited connector, you might have a flush or a straight draw, which will win if you happen to hit, but you only have to spend one-tenth of the pot to see the next card. These are great odds.

When you have a small pair, you're hoping for the 13% chance of hitting a set on the flop. Therefore, if there are seven people are in the pot, you have perfect pot odds for a set. But, for small pairs, not only are the pot odds good for a set, the implied odds once you hit your set are exceptional. If you do hit your set, odds are great that someone will have a second-best hand with a slim or no change of beating you, and that person will pay you off with a K or J. Small pairs only show their best profit when playing with five or more players in the pot.

A common follow-up question to this small pair advice is, "How do I evaluate the set potential of large pairs?" After all, we've discussed how implied odds are overall pretty good once you have hit your set. Unfortunately, the same doesn't apply to large pairs. If you hit a set with a large pair, there's a very good chance it will be top set, meaning there are no cards on the board higher than your set, you won't get much action other than draws. Think about this: if you have A-A and the flop is A-J-5, there's only so much you can get from a hand such as K-J!